The cowboy authenticity ends where the massage therapy and pool begin.

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The lower house was built to be the play zone, with a swimming pool, massage room, steam room, sauna, cold plunge and Jacuzzi.

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On the rare occasions I've visited spas, I'd gone for the full-meal deal massage, sauna, swimming pool, piped-in new-age music.

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The spa is another standout, with a flowing indoor-outdoor space that wraps around a waterfall-soundtracked pool, skilled massage therapists, and top-notch facials with cult-favorite natural products like Organic Pharmacy and Osea.

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The two-floor, 22, 000-square-foot space may be situated in the heart of stuffy and conservative Fifth Avenue, but the spa is daring to go where few, if any, have gone before: A Watsu pool (for underwater shiatsu massage) and a penthouse roof garden for outdoor massages in good weather are two of Cornelia's unique offerings.

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For serious laps, try the North Sydney Olympic Pool (next to the Sydney Harbour Bridge) or for a lazier affair have a massage at Wylies Bath in Coogee.

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Dine in the inner courtyard on fresh snapper or pomfret, avail yourself of an Ayurvedic massage courtesy of the in-house masseur, or take a quick dip in the sparkling garden-side pool.

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Then, indulge in a signature couples' massage (at an additional fee) at the inn's respected spa, and spend the afternoon at the pool.

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