The prep staff stock the pullout drawers beneath the counters with slabs of marinated meat and fish, serving-size baggies of pasta and crabmeat, steaming bowls of brown rice and mashed potatoes.

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The meat is marinated in a mix of soy sauce, vinegar and onions and the result is a salty but sour bite you will not soon forget.

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Pachauri now jets around the world preaching a gospel in which carbon dioxide is the root of all evil, urging such measures as a global meat-free day each week (apparently, with ginger-marinated French-cut breast of chicken on the dinner menu, this wasn't one of them).

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Frank Silva, the general manager makes the meat just as the deli did in 1928, hand rubbed with herbs and spices, marinated, smoked steamed and hand sliced.

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