Unlike her father, who marinated his beef in wine for up to 48 hours, Ms. Escoffier said she skips the soak but slow-simmers for longer than her father did.

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On the first night, we camped far into the jungle beneath tarps and ate barbecued beef marinated in lime juice in the company of a man who lives off the land and travels only by canoe.

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The menu is filled with familiar Cuban dishes like ropa vieja, shredded beef in a Cuban Creole sauce, and marinated pork, fried for good measure.

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From a crudo of marinated salmon with ginger, shallots and cucumber granita to black angus beef with smoked bone marrow, he has a light touch but his flavors really pop.

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As its name would suggest, the restaurant serves cuts of prime beef, but goes beyond the typical steak with regional fare such as tender ostrich fillet, marinated venison and South African kingklip (cusk eel imported from the coast).

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