The Maremma seems to bring out the inner buttero in many people, visitors and locals alike.
These days well-traveled visitors have begun to absorb its allure--rough old Maremma has been primping up.
The Marchese Antinori began making Vermentino at his Maremma estate, Tenuta Guada al Tasso, in 1996.
WSJ: Vermentino, the Wine of Yachts and Beaches | Lettie Teague on Wine
Among other things, Sassicaia transformed the Maremma, and Bolgheri in particular, into a pilgrimage spot for wine lovers and winemakers.
But it was Incisa's father, Marchese Mario Incisa, who elevated the Maremma to worldwide cachet with a single whim.
It is true that underneath it all, the Maremma remains stubbornly itself.
Maremma promises a Tuscany-meets-Texas experience, and delivers: Everything, from the Tuscan tomato soup to gnocchi to the yellowfin tuna, is sublime.
This is, it turns out, a perfect place for nurturing grapes that respond to warm, dry autumns--the Maremma is often glowing with an Indian summer at harvesttime.
The Maremma (mah-REH-mah) is a place the guidebooks like to call "Tuscany's Wild West, " a once-forgotten region with dark legends of pirates and exiles, witches and plagues.
Summer turns the plains of the Maremma into vistas of sunflowers and waving, golden grain, a classic backdrop for paintings by the Macchiaioli, a once-prominent group of late-19th-century Italian Impressionists.
From La Maremma to Florence, every hilltop village has its own character and the lands that produce Chianti, Brunello and Montepulciano, also yield delicious specialties from wild boar to truffles.
Vermentino is also produced on Italy's mainland, in the coastal region of Maremma in Tuscany and further north in the Liguria region, where Vermentino takes on a decidedly minerally, sometimes almost stony, edge.
WSJ: Vermentino, the Wine of Yachts and Beaches | Lettie Teague on Wine
Although the precise boundaries of the Maremma are open to interpretation, people consider themselves Maremmano from north of Bolgheri, all the way south to Capalbio and the jet-set beach towns of the Monte Argentario, and inland to the hills on the western side of Montalcino.
Sassicaia and the luxury-wine boom sprinkled a pinch of fairy dust over the Maremma, a place whose outside appeal was previously confined to the tourists who swarm on the coast in July and August, and the enclaves of wealthy Florentines and Romans who keep beach houses and hunting cabins there (and keep to themselves).
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