Nor the trip to Michelin-starred La Madia through the weird, industrial ugliness of Gela.

BBC: Postcard from Southeast Sicily

In 1997, he opened his first restaurant, Blackbird, with partner, Donald Madia.

WSJ: Paul Kahan's Apple Salad With Chicories, Pecans & Gorgonzola | Slow Food Fast

Defence lawyer Nicola Madia says he has not been able to properly defend his clients because the Italian government has declared the case covered by state secrecy laws.

BBC: Italy's ex-spy chief convicted over 2003 CIA rendition

Fourteen years later, Blackbird has become a Chicago institution and Mr. Kahan and Mr. Madia have gone on to build a restaurant group whose critically acclaimed holdings range from a hot spot serving Mexican street food to a sleek, informal restaurant specializing in cooking with oysters, pork and beer.

WSJ: Paul Kahan's Apple Salad With Chicories, Pecans & Gorgonzola | Slow Food Fast