At Pakhuis, tucking in to oven-roasted Bresse chicken beneath industrial trusses felt like picnicking in the machine room of the Eiffel Tower.

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Craig Pinckney, 34, a shipping manager at a Connecticut environmental laboratory, seriously considered trading in his Alienware Area 51 tower (complete with a cyborg-green paint job) for the new Doom 3 machine, but decided he could just upgrade his processor and video card instead.

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An answering machine picked up calls in his 7, 000-square-foot office on Fifth Avenue facing Trump Tower.

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