Not all that glitters underwater is gold: The Pollockshields, for instance, which sunk a century ago, is still laden with live ammunition and shell casings.

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Until recently there were two ways to visit Apo: you could shell out for a live-aboard dive safari operating out of the town of Puerto Galera in eastern Mindoro, or out of Coron town in Palawan province south of Mindoro.

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"I would rather shell out the money to live in a neighborhood where I felt comfortable, " she said.

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And the way the skinny neck disappeared between the animal's breastplate and shell-a squirming, live thing slipping hidden into dead stony stuff-it seemed suddenly like the Mystery of Mysteries, the very source of Life .

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"They x-rayed the cylindrical shell, which was about 10 inches (25cm) and confirmed it was a live incendiary device, " a spokesman said.

BBC: Unexploded WWII bomb found in Balsall Common