The Pigato grape grown in Liguria has long been one of my favorites.

WSJ: The Unique Charms of 'Miscellaneous Wines' | On Wine by Lettie Teague

It's known as Rolle in Provence, Pigato in Liguria and Favorita in Piedmont, and there are dozens of other names as well.

WSJ: Vermentino, the Wine of Yachts and Beaches | Lettie Teague on Wine

Thought to have originated in Spain, Vermentino has been grown in a number of Mediterranean locations for hundreds of years, including Provence and Liguria, Corsica and Sardinia.

WSJ: Vermentino, the Wine of Yachts and Beaches | Lettie Teague on Wine

From Alsace Sylvaner to Altesse from Savoy, Arneis in Piedmont, Scheurebe from Germany and Pigato in Liguria (and more), I found characterful wines that were as distinctive as they were well-priced.

WSJ: The Unique Charms of 'Miscellaneous Wines' | On Wine by Lettie Teague

Vermentino is also produced on Italy's mainland, in the coastal region of Maremma in Tuscany and further north in the Liguria region, where Vermentino takes on a decidedly minerally, sometimes almost stony, edge.

WSJ: Vermentino, the Wine of Yachts and Beaches | Lettie Teague on Wine