Even though they are often deep and rich, they also have the liveliness of white wines, which means they could even complement -- this was another of our food notes -- any kind of white fish with capers, lemon and black olives.

WSJ: The Simple Truth About an Earthy Delight

The acid from the lime, lemon or orange juice changes the structure of the proteins in the fish much in the same way that heat does. (If you make it at home, you can observe the flesh turning from translucent to opaque.) Therein lay my answer.

NPR: Cool and Comforting Ceviche

Whole roasted fish (branzino or turbot) are reliably flaky and tender, served with caramelized lemon.

NEWYORKER: Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria