The team already knew that lemon and orange should naturally fall into the citrus family, jasmine should be floral and thyme herbaceous.

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The wine is almost entirely sauvignon blanc (98%) with a very small amount of semillon, and it has that dry, crisp style and minerality when it hits the mouth, but quickly gets fatter and creamier on the tongue, with layers of melon and light citrus fruit (mainly grapefruit and lemon).

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Cedro is a local citrus fruit that looks like a giant lemon.

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My personal favorite, a lemon ganache coated in dark chocolate, is a burst of intense citrus surrounded by velvety chocolate notes.

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It has reasons for hope, in booming citrus farms, which have made the province of 1.1m people the world's leading lemon producer.

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