There are exceptions, of course, and two of my favorites are both produced in New York: the Channing Daughters Tocai Friulano, a crisp dry white made from a Friulian grape, and a minerally white Rkatsiteli, a Russian grape grown by Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars in the Finger Lakesdistrict.
By cooperating with the Feds Bulriss won Great Lakes amnesty from federal criminal prosecution, but attracted two civil suits filed in U.S. district court in Arkansas.