In Kinsale, I know an eccentric publican with an intimate and exquisite bar below his own living quarters.

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The movement was founded in Totnes, Devon, and Kinsale, Ireland, in 2005 and 2006, with the aim of helping those communities prepare for the twin challenges of peak oil output and climate change.

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In Cork, no less, in the 18th-century English Market, I sampled smoked mussels in vinaigrette, rock lobster from Kinsale, tender soda bread flavored with fennel seed, elderflower cordial, floury Golden Wonder potatoes and Yellowman toffee.

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