But it was only two years ago that anyone outside Kinmen had heard about it (through some well-placed advertorials no less).

BBC: Overcoming 40 years of solitude on Kinmen Island

For most of the Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1912), Kinmen had grown wealthy with trade, and clan competed with clan to display status via their homes.

BBC: Overcoming 40 years of solitude on Kinmen Island

Residents are understandably less excited about the opening of former military sites, like the tunnels they used to huddle into for thrice-weekly drills (Kinmen is one of the most dug-into places in the world).

BBC: Overcoming 40 years of solitude on Kinmen Island