Jon Burr, a 34-year-old personal trainer, was walking 5 miles home to Charlestown through Kenmore Square.

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In Kenmore Square, the triangle lined with hotels and shops between Fenway Park and Boston University, the streets were mostly empty and storefronts locked.

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Instead, he tossed his precious ball in the air every few steps, catching it with his glove as we walked toward Kenmore Square, on our way home.

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Bathed in the flashing lights from Kenmore Square's iconic rooftop Citgo sign, Boston University juniors Brendan Hathaway and Sam Howes high-fived strangers as they walked down the street.

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Yes, some things have been lost in the shuffle of modernization it's hard not to long for the Kenmore Square of yore, when seminal music venue the Rathskeller, a mecca for Boston's hard-core scene, and Deli Haus, a late-night favorite for Guinness floats and potato pancakes, were the biggest draws.

WSJ: Insider's Travel Guide to Boston | Journal Concierge