For example, Wetherspoons also offered an Annabel Karmel spaghetti bolognese containing just 0.1g of salt.

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The skirt steak won, "much to their, but not my, surprise, " Ms. Karmel said.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut

To turn skirt steak into a meal, Ms. Karmel suggests serving it with a warm coleslaw.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut

But that's changing, thanks in no small part to proselytizing by influential chefs like Elizabeth Karmel.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut

"It's definitely pushing the envelope in both the civil and criminal cases, " says Roberta S. Karmel, a former SEC commissioner.

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Ms. Karmel, whose personal motto is "If you can eat it, you can grill it, " naturally recommends grilling the cut.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut

The key finishing touch, both Ms. Karmel and Ms. Bigelow note, is to slice the skirt steak against the grain.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut

"The butchers of the world are upset, " Ms. Karmel joked, noting that before demand for skirt steak spiked, they used to take it home for their families.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut

During the process, I checked in with my friend and barbecue expert Elizabeth Karmel, North Carolina native and executive chef of Hill Country Barbecue in New York.

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Ms. Karmel recently organized a blind taste-test for friends that included rib eye, New York strip and skirt steak, all cooked with nothing but salt and pepper.

WSJ: Why Skirt Steak Is the Kindest Cut