It's hard to tell in the reddish darkness of the Apple Barrel, a cluttered jazz bar on Frenchmen Street, especially when a drunkard wobbles by, momentarily blocking the view of the tiny stage.
Finally, for dinner, dig into a delicious plate of gnocchi at the highly rated Spaccanopoli (Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi) then head over to Jazz Bar (Hilton Abu Dhabi) for a post-supper cocktail served with a dash of live jazz - the perfect nightcap before your early morning flight.
Piano and trumpet players infuse classic jazz into the bar and three dining rooms.
At a gallery opening in Jacmel I met an artist who'd spent the '60s tending bar at jazz clubs in New York.
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He has four restaurants in the Latvian capital, Riga, plus a bar, a jazz club, a wine shop and a catering service.
One evening, I met up with some San Francisco colleagues and had drinks at the bar while a jazz band of six veteran musicians made harmony together once again.
Another older Shinjuku gem is Jazz Pub Michaux, a bar whose white-bearded, kimono-and-Mongolian-cap-wearing 76-year-old owner has 4, 500 records of hard-bop and soul-jazz, including a large collection of rare vinyl by artists like Baby Face Willette and Groove Holmes.
Long-time bands like the Jazz Vipers play at a cool little bar called the Spotted Cat.
But as the handclapping gave way to a percolating, polyrhythmic mix of funk, Afrobeat and electric jazz, the crowd migrated to the dance floor from a downstairs bar.
At Balmoral bistro bar, which overlooks the main plaza, enjoy live jazz Thursdays through Saturdays while noshing on dishes such as signature beef tataki topped with roasted sesame seeds and Quebecois maple syrup, or a traditionally French beef bourguignon.
The bar itself draws a crowd nearly every night, with live jazz Mondays through Saturdays.
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Piccolo Bar Cafe, which opened in the 1940s and swiftly developed a reputation as a hangout for local jazz musicians, still attracts a loyal crowd and has provided a blueprint for the growing number of new cafes, bars and restaurants opening in the streets and laneways off Darlinghurst Road.
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