Meanwhile, sales of high-end hooch increased by 8%, to 15.4 million cases.

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Vintners in the 1870s sold hooch to miners, and again during Prohibition, when bootleggers here ran wine into Los Angeles under the cover of night.

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The Kenyan government was worried that cheap hooch was making people seriously ill, so it offered to excuse Diageo from excise duty if it produced a cut-price beer.

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This booze was akin to moonshine or to flavored hooch.

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Elsewhere in the gallery, four perfect paintings by Vermeer, who defines perfection in art, share an alcove with exciting pictures by the more nonchalant Pieter de Hooch, his fellow citizen of Delft.

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Favorites are a recently acquired set of 17th-century Dutch silvered, painted and varnished leather wall hangings, shown with Pieter de Hooch's painting "Leisure Time in an Elegant Setting" (c. 1663-65) in which similar coverings appear.

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Before that they had known two centuries of splendid middle-class rule, when prosperous merchants in tall black hats had sent out ships to the far ends of Asia and, with the profits, sponsored De Hooch and Vermeer.

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