But thanks to the Hong Kong Arts Centre in Hong Kong's Wan Chai neighbourhood, Fu finally found an affordable, centrally-located spot to host the festival.

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His latest venture, tiny tapas restaurant 22 Ships in Hong Kong's Wan Chai neighbourhood, has been attracting hours-long waits (due to its no-reservations policy) since its October opening.

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Quemo, which opened in April in Wan Chai, is one of the few Hong Kong restaurants that serves an authentic paella, right down to the caramelised rice crust (socarrat).

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Within minutes of disembarking on the "Hong Kong side", I plunge into Wan Chai market, where plastic packets of dried seafood - some with medicinal qualities - are sold alongside knock-off Calvin Klein underwear.

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