Just a few hundred metres east of Artesania El Gran Condor is the entrance to the Cascadas de Peguche, an 18m-high waterfall that plunges out of the thick forest.

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"It always rains when the Aranui arrives, " said our driver, one of many locals who ferried cruise passengers deep into the rainforest, passing the 350m-high Vaipo Waterfall, the largest in the South Pacific, on the way.

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Those after somewhat less vertical pursuits can head to nearby Glen Nevis for an easy walk to Steall Meadows, home to a 100m-high bridal-veil waterfall.

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