And they all shared the same attributes, said Mr. Goldstein, who offered a list: moderate alcohol, moderate to high acidity, soft tannins and little or no oak.

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As a rule of thumb, I prefer a juicy red wine, something like a Barbera from Piemonte, whose low tannins, high acidity and power cut through the pizza.

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She found if she told her students that, for example, a wine had high alcohol content, high acidity and good body, the students had a hard time remembering that.

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Of course, the best way to enjoy pizza is at a little local pizzeria overlooking the Bay of Naples, washed down with whatever the restaurant serves, in all likelihood a local Aglianico, a dark-red wine with high acidity and high tannins.

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Outside of France, Vin Santo in Italy (Isole e Olena is a favorite) and the glorious high-acidity Rieslings found in Germany are worth exploring.

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Cabernet Franc, grown in the Chinon and Saumur regions of the Loire, has bright fruit and high-toned acidity like Pinot Noir.

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