There were two ordinary vaquero's or herdsman's saddles, like American stock saddles, one very ornate vaquero's saddle, with hand-tooled leather and heavy, hooded stirrups, and two military saddles in black leather.

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The first time I shed the heavy plate armor and tried on the Black Leather suit, I realized how much more fun light armor was.

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There was a suggestion of couture in the shapes of the dresses and coats most of them made from heavy wool and mohair, some paneled with leather or sheer material.

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The young man, who was tall and thin, with sun-streaked fair hair, and a wind- and sun-burned face, who wore the sun-faded flannel shirt, a pair of peasant's trousers and rope-soled shoes, leaned over, put his arm through one of the leather pack straps and swung the heavy pack up onto his shoulders.

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First comes the heavy-handed hints, then you pull a racy leather number from the wardrobe before declaring that you're fine without it and never wanted the thing anyway.

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We are staring at a wall of handsome, hand-tooled saddles: English, Western, and, for the die-hards, a version of a buttero saddle in rich, leather-trimmed suede, filled with jute, horsehair, and hay over a heavy wooden yoke.

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