Purgatory should have been a safe haven for souls that belong neither in Heaven nor Hell, but instead John finds himself in a corrupt prison, one bereft of freedom or pleasure.

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The result for many pilgrims in 1998, has no doubt been closer to hell than heaven as JCBs, diggers, mechanical cranes and workmen in hard hats have made movement virtually impossible.

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In heaven, there are no debts -- all have been paid, one way or another -- but in hell there's nothing but debts, and a great deal of payment is exacted, though you can't ever get all paid up.

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