Offshore shrimpers, out at sea in bigger boats for weeks at a time, grumble that the inshore fleet steals their baby shrimps before they can grow and head out to sea.

ECONOMIST: The shrimping industry

And finally, just before you head out to sea, you will pass a series of fascinating ice-making houses where huge blocks of frozen water slide down rollercoaster runners and into the waiting boats.

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On top of that, the birds (like Garbo) project an air of mystery: They spend only a few months near land each year, then head back out to sea, scientists know not where.

FORBES: Chick Flick

Yet the greatest thrill to be had on the Amalfi Coast is to head out for the open sea.

BBC: Live the good life on the Amalfi Coast

On clear days you will probably want to head straight out onto the observatory's wraparound terrace, which looks out over a rippling sea of pearly-white summits, deep into Italy, Germany and France and over the 22km-long tongue of the Aletsch Glacier, the longest of its kind in the Alps and a Unesco World Heritage site.

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