"He'd come to our house, we used to have picnics, " he said.

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Regardless of paternity, such a day was first celebrated on Tuesday, September 5, 1882, in New York City, when members of the CLU took an unpaid day off to demonstrate solidarity and, of course, have picnics.

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An even more egregious omission, given that this book attempts to look at how cuisine defines French culture as a whole, is visual art: there is no mention of the sumptuous culinary still-lifes by Chardin, the countless Impressionist picnics, brioches by Bonnard or mealtimes by Matisse, images that have literally transformed food into art in a specifically French way.

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"You can have 100 people all walking around out there with bikes, playing football and having picnics out there - and they leave all their rubbish, " said Mr Andrew.

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