Almost everyone leaps at the chance to go ashore at our first stop, King George Island, to climb a windswept 1, 000-foot incline whose hard crust of snow cracks on contact, sinking you to your knees every other step.

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The changes in the weather create a crust of hard ice over the lichen, preventing the reindeer from eating.

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Giving up junk food has been hard, but she splurges occasionally on thin-crust pizza or Nutella on whole wheat waffles.

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