Campaigners, with the support of marine scientists, have repeatedly tried to persuade countries to agree to an international ban, arguing that the indiscriminate nature of bottom-trawling is causing irreversible damage to coral reefs and slow-growing fish species, which can take decades to reach maturity and are therefore slow to replenish their numbers.

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Such troubles are unlikely to sap growing global demand for fish and other aquaculture products.

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Fish farms are growing in some countries.

CNN: Governments trying to reel in 'ocean sprawl'

At the Touro College School of Health Sciences in New York, Morris Benjaminson and his team are working on removing living tissue from fish, and then growing it in culture.

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For now, at any rate, the problem stems more from the growing number of fishermen than from falling numbers of fish.

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Mr. Rackley and his teammate, Mr. Knight, hung out in the marina, nabbing fish that were noshing on the algae growing on the wood pilings.

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In addition, there is growing circumstantial evidence for hybrid speciation in Ragoletis fruit flies, swordtail fish and African cichlid fish.

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Fish farming's supporters argue that it could meet the growing shortfall as wild fisheries become more and more exhausted.

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Two establishments stood nearby: a redbrick pub with pretty clumps of lavender growing in the window pots and, on the other side of the green, a luridly painted fish-and-chip van.

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While fish are very efficient machines (unlike chickens and cows, they don't use metabolic energy by growing strong bones to fight gravity), they still eat a lot.

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