He wades through the rows of fruit-laden plants, which smell faintly of chocolate thanks to the ground cocoa husks fertilizing the soil.

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Ground zero is Kotkai, which sits amid barren saffron and chocolate colored hillsides above a snaking river cutting through South Waziristan.

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Diners praise the six-course tasting menu, which covers culinary ground with everything from a local foie gras to chef Giovanni Apollo's masterful chocolate dessert creations.

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