While the Golzernsee hike does not end with edibles, it does lead to a 6km hike over chalet-strewn meadows, where the clanging bells of grazing cows echo across valleys.

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He looks appreciatively at the Jersey cows grazing contentedly behind him and says that theirs is the pinot noir of milk, which makes very good butter (as the pinot noir grape makes very good wine).

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Ms. Johnson, 26 years old, has taken to sending email blasts to her friends from Princeton, describing a morning she spent artificially inseminating cows or explaining how grazing helps ranch land thrive.

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Only about 35 cows are needed over the winter months to continue grazing a small part of the protected land.

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