The fly bobbing on the brown, gentle water.

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Like other ESPA-designed properties, the Acqualina spa flows beautifully, in gentle fountains of water, in warm and muted lighting, in the floors of teak and quartzite tile and walls of slate and tinted mosaics.

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For much of the way it was a gentle wade through shallow water, the wet rocks providing a surprisingly firm grip for both sandals and bare feet.

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We arrived on the banks of the Comoue and the spot is idyllic - green, sunny, with the gentle noise of running water, basically the perfect breeding site for black flies.

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The only sound is their oar-blades slicing into the water and the gentle hum of a motor launch behind.

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But on the water, the gentle breeze made it feel like you were standing in front of an opened refrigerator.

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Eco enthusiasts can get their Jacques Cousteau on at Las Baulas National Marine Park, an underwater showcase of marine life with warm water, high visibility and gentle currents.

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