The slight underlying sweetness from the beer makes a perfect companion for the sweet and spicy nuances of this early example of fusion cooking, which combines Dutch dishes with flavours from what is now Indonesia.

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For those not familiar with the food, Nobu was a pioneer at the forefront of the now common Asian fusion cuisine movement, melding elements of traditional Japanese and Peruvian cooking.

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Ten years ago, the cooking of the Filipino-American chef Dale Talde might have been categorized as Asian fusion, a designation that today holds all the appeal of a frozen stir-fry dinner.

NEWYORKER: Talde