Blackberry's four cheeses--Singing Brook, Violet, Trefoil and Blackberry Blue--are made by cheesemaker Kristian Holbrook and his assistants, who the day I visited included a fresh-faced young woman named Heidi, lacking only a dirndl and a yen to yodel to pass for a Swiss milkmaid.

FORBES: Weekend in the Country

Instead, it serves a selection of the four best cheeses of the day, chosen in the kitchen by his chef Jocelyn Herland and then sent to the table.

WSJ: Bruce Palling on Food: On a Cheese-Selecting Mission With Alain Ducasse

Ian Clark, the assistant restaurant manager, offers anywhere between 25 and 35 cheeses divided into four categories (hard, blue, soft and goat) regardless of their nationality.

WSJ: Bruce Palling on Food: On a Cheese-Selecting Mission With Alain Ducasse