The ideas may be fresh, but both pubs have retained their rustic character: flagstones on the floor, rough beams, a crackling fire in the grate and, most importantly of all, a passionately loyal local clientele.

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Robert Morris's walk-in "Labyrinth" and 25-by-33-foot "Aluminum I-Beams Construction" and a floor piece by Carl Andre also fit handily, as does Claes Oldenburg's Brobdingnagian, brilliant-red "Knife Ship, " its motorized oars rowing and its knife blades rising and lowering at the gallery's far end.

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The first floor, where a shop would had been, retains the exposed wooden beams and showcase windows.

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For those of you who thrive on subtleties, the rooms at the far end of each floor have a terrace for two, and rooms 5 and 8 have exposed beams.

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On the second floor, the living room has white walls, vaulted ceilings with blonde wood support beams, wide-plank, dark wood floors and a second entryway.

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It is an ancient-looking room, with a gleaming floor buffed by many feet for many years, its low willow-branch ceiling and beams brightly painted and hung with banners, the walls depicting floating Buddhas and snarling, dark-faced demons.

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