In fact, one impassioned Vietnamese argues, the comparison is inadequate, since fish sauce is a more sophisticated product than wine: only a tiny number of wines survive longer than 50 years, whereas fish sauce continues to grow in flavour and complexity indefinitely.

ECONOMIST: As communism crumbles, a great cuisine revives

Or specifically, the state fish and game department and the specific product discussed is the sale of fishing licenses.

FORBES: My Worst Vendor