The breadfruit was Mau's favourite tree anyway: tall and light, with a twisty grain excellent for boat-building, sticky latex for caulking, and big starchy fruit which, fermented, made the ideal food for an ocean voyage.

ECONOMIST: Mau Piailug

Appetizers include classic Japanese bar food such as ika no shiokara, strips of raw squid dressed in sauce of its own fermented viscera.

NEWYORKER: Ootoya