Generally, during the honeymoon period of six months to a year, military leaders of developing countries remain less corrupt but soon they indulge in fathomless corruption.

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The dripping of water resonates around the cave, and I'm reminded of Axel's words in Journey to the Centre of the Earth: 'I had not yet peered into the fathomless pit into which I was about to venture.

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But like a moto magician, Sopheng turned the handlebars this way and that, minutely steering a course between puddles, somehow avoiding the slickest spots that would have sent us flying, gunning the engine moments before we got stuck, fording fathomless puddles when that was the only way, and all with a serene smile.

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