Edifices citywide are dotted with small white square signs alerting residents that their homes are patrolled by police.

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During those millennia of isolation this 90 square miles of grassy hills dotted with termite mounds and surrounded by coral reefs has evolved a collection of critters found nowhere else on Earth.

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Its gay epicentre status is made obvious by the open glorieta (square) outside the metro station, which is dotted with gay couples whispering and playfully wrestling.

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