The kitchen and formal dining room overlook the building's private garden and there are other views of a landscaped churchyard.

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The main building houses the kitchen and dining area, run by the cheery-eyed Dana Post, a graduate of Denver's School of Culinary Arts, and Michael Carlucci, who managed New York's Montrachet.

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The endless layout includes more than 50 bedrooms, a series of intimate drawing rooms and a regally appointed dining room with an underground passage to a separate kitchen building.

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Some are dilapidated but others have been spectacularly restored, including the former Bank of Indochina building, which now houses a fine-dining restaurant with an excellent view across the square.

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Cezayir, tucked into a cul- de-sac within the Soho-esque antiques shopping district Cukurcuma, is a 19th-century former school building housing several environments--a garden, an informal lounge, a formal dining room with teal walls and an ornate chandelier.

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After more than 25 years of dining professionally at the best restaurants in the old world, I thought I knew that the crucial building blocks of flavor are long-simmered meat or seafood stocks and deglazed pan juices.

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