The meat is sweet and delicate, and the abundant fat carries hints of the herbs and roots foraged on the hillsides around.

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Some restaurants, like the Ning Po Residents Association, require a nominal annual fee (around 200 Hong Kong dollars), but in return you gain access to excellent food (in this case, recipes from the city of Ningbo, near Shanghai, such as delicate, juicy soup dumplings and sweet-and-sour fish), in an exclusive but usually unpretentious setting.

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These added elements simply round it out and gives the rum a richer, fuller flavor, not body, and is it slightly sweet, with virtually no alcohol burn and the flavors are predominantly delicate: toffee, vanilla, slight fruitiness.

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The taste is delicate, with a muted peatiness and a lot of the sweet, floral notes.

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The skin is fried to a crisp, but the flesh beneath remains delicate, and the accompanying nuoc mam sauce vibrates with the tang of sweet basil, chili, and cilantro.

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Main courses: delicate halibut, beautifully presented skate and delicious organic chicken with peas, beans and sweet potatoes.

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