And for the dramatic climax, head to the terrace of Pincian Hill, above Piazza del Popolo, at 7:30 pm on 12 February for a fireworks display.

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The hill is topped by Michelangelo's Piazza del Campidoglio, an artistic pinnacle as well as a geographical one.

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Cider and green hillscapes, for example, are features of the camino del norte along the verdant northern coast, as are handsome beaches whose bracing waters are sweet relief between hill trudges.

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