The main course was rustic, a sort of risotto made with dashi, a Japanese broth.
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Dashi is a building block of Japanese cuisine, as important as chicken stock is to French food.
If you have got the dashi, you have got an instant base for future soups and stews.
At the Sawyers' ramen spot, Noodle Cat, the Japanese plum wine vinegar adds depth to the dashi broth that flavors various dishes.
It turns out that the dashi, or stock, is incredibly easy, and from there, making miso soup with Andoh-recommended shiro miso is an absolute cinch.
The resulting dashi should be very clean in appearance and taste.
First make the Japanese soup stock, or dashi: In a 4-quart saucepan, combine 3 quarts of water, the kelp, and bonito flakes and place over medium-low heat.
First, the primary dashi, which functions as this soup's broth, comes together when a pot of water with kombu is boiled and bonito flakes are tossed in.
As in many cookbooks written by chefs, the recipes often require making other recipes first, such as a seared scallop dish that uses a cup of bacon dashi and a handful of pickled chanterelles.
Now for what Ms. Schwertner calls the secondary dashi, which serves as the poaching liquid for the halibut: Add the reserved bonito flakes and kombu to a pot with water and Meyer lemon slices.
To make this dashi, simmer kombu (a dried seaweed) and bonito (dried tuna belly flakes). (Both ingredients are available at most Japanese markets and some specialty stores.) If you can't find kombu, Ms. Schwertner suggests using dried shiitake mushrooms, which impart a similar umami flavor.
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