When she left the dancing-floor on the arm of her partner she became engulfed in a crowd of impatient supplicants who would scarcely give place to any under the rank of a general.

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Showcasing Moto's commitment to music, the company brought along its own dance floor and a couple of bored looking dancing girls and an even more relaxed DJ.

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At both places you will see locals, as well as tourists who are completely hooked on tango, dancing socially while making sure to respect all the dance floor etiquette ("codigos") that make this a cultural experience.

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We climb the winding stairs, past a sleek black entryway sculpture of dancing partners jutting up nearly three stories from a ground-floor fountain, and enter a parlor clad completely in copper, the metallurgical complement to the ballroom.

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Music-lovers also should check out the Hotel Hof Weissbad (from 270 CHF), the only venue that has Appenzeller music concerts year-round: every Wednesday night is a raucous dancing and music session, where old-timers spin around on the dance floor to high-speed hackbrett.

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Byrne doesn't perform in the show, but was present on the dance floor throughout a recent performance, flashing his familiar head bob and rubbing elbows with dancing audience members.

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