Walk past the Sunday night milonga in San Telmo's Plaza Dorrego and you will see eager young travellers putting their first tango lessons to the test, dancing cheek-to-cheek with distinguished-looking partners three times their age.

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The performance, when it finally kicks off, is akin to a mad jamming session with cacophonous contributions from the cheek-to-jowl audience and spontaneous outbreaks of dancing for those who can clear enough room to swing their elbows.

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