On the lower level are 30 or 40 different small, small restaurants, each specializing in one thing one does only chili crab, one does only pork cutlets.

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That room is backed by a gleaming open-plan kitchen that turns out what's best described as fresh gourmet farmhouse fare (lamb cutlets with pistachio pesto, lemon-scented veal meatballs).

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At Amis, Mr. Vetri coats the cutlets with store-bought breadcrumbs because they are finer than the homemade kind and more consistently sized, making for a uniformly crisp crust.

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After dipping the turkey in the beaten egg and crumbs, but before cooking, allow the cutlets a few minutes' repose to let the breading fully adhere to the meat.

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Its guidelines state that whole cuts of meat, such as steaks, cutlets and joints, are only ever contaminated by bacteria on the outside of the meat, which are destroyed during cooking even if the middle of the meat is pink, or rare.

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Specialty butchers generally have access to rabbit and can debone the hind legs for you. (If you can't find rabbit, turkey breasts or veal or pork cutlets make fine substitutes, Mr. Stryjewski said.) Pounding the legs thin before seasoning is also essential it evens out the meat and speeds up the cooking time.

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