After dinner my grandmother lit a cigarette and my grandfather poured three glasses of homemade black currant vodka.

NPR: Excerpt: 'City of Thieves'

It's paired with a sweet-peppery salad of watercress, apple, currant and shaved celery, adapted from the restaurant's fall menu.

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The accompanying parsley, radish, red onion, pine nut and currant salad rounds out the plate with contrasting textures and lively flavors.

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At once delicate and bold, the piece showcases 477 brilliant diamonds that cascade down in the shape of currant leaves and berries.

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