Turkey is one of the most strategically important nations on the planet, situated at the cross-roads of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, with important -- and generally very complex -- ties to each.

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We are at a cross-roads.

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Vijay Pura is cross-hatched with hard-packed roads built by people on the act's payroll.

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We no longer had to cross no-mans-land from back roads into the underground garage to avoid snipers.

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The town is peppered with basic houses painted in a kaleidoscope of colours, and the sandy dirt roads that criss-cross Punta del Diablo can still be traversed in about an hour on foot.

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