Or surimi, that imitation crab food product found in the freezer section of your local supermarket and in California rolls.

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Continuing the theme of found food, a soft-shell crab is presented as an edible beach treasure, surrounded by amaranth grains for sand and brown-butter sauce for seawater.

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Caines takes Devon's regional ingredients several steps further, adding his own world-food nuances: ravioli of Brixham crab with a ginger-and-shellfish sauce, slow-poached Cornish sea bass with Thai puree, stir-fried shiitake mushrooms and a lemongrass foam, slow-roasted Hatherleigh venison with braised pork belly.

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At my restaurant Kin Shop, which focuses on contemporary Thai food, I've started a Monday night crab dinner series, highlighting at least three different species of crab spread over four courses.

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