The company said its energy drinks contain about 10 milligrams of caffeine an ounce, less than half the concentration of leading coffee-house brews.

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Considering the addition of better-tasting coffee, iced coffee and specialty brews in some of McDonald's U.S. stores, one has to take the concern seriously.

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If it's too crowded, try the low-key Coffee Gallery (66-250 Kamehameha Highway, in the North Shore Marketplace, roastmaster.com ), a local favorite that brews its coffee from locally grown beans.

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Back at his small artisan factory, Il Gusto della Costa, Valentino brews some lemon coffee: dark espresso with two thin slices of peel in the pot.

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Guaranteeing a minimum price also means there is no incentive to improve quality, grumble coffee-drinkers, who find that the quality of Fairtrade brews varies widely.

ECONOMIST: Food politics