Mr. Schwartz first encountered quail while working at Chinois, and it has remained one of his favorite ingredients.

WSJ: Michael Schwartz's Maple-Glazed Quail With Pear and Almond Salad | Slow Food Fast

Indeed, despite denials by the judge concerned, they say le Chinois was freed in anticipation of the new law coming into effect.

ECONOMIST: Or is it just understaffed?

Inspired by what he described as the "eye-opening" year he spent cooking at Wolfgang Puck's Santa Monica restaurant Chinois, the menu revealed Mr. Schwartz's penchant for colorful dishes and bold flavors.

WSJ: Michael Schwartz's Maple-Glazed Quail With Pear and Almond Salad | Slow Food Fast