There are plenty of different ingredients you can put in your bowl to personalize your creation: Soy sauce, sesame oil or paste, chili, garlic, coriander, vinegar and Chinese barbecue sauce (see inset, above) are some choices.

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Red chutney scorches the mouth with garlic and chili powder (and maybe a touch of tamarind), while the green stuff tingles the lips with green chilis, cilantro and mint.

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Mr. Mattos calls for tossing the chicken pieces with pungent garlic, hot chili flakes and sweet fennel seeds.

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The meat-heavy stop, situated just north of downtown in the industrial Holy Cross area, is home to a full menu of housemade charcuterie from the Spicy Delaware Meatball, a pork salami packed with crushed chili, espelette pepper and garlic, to black truffle bologna.

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