Chapoutier Domaine Bila-Haut Blanc, a lively, medium bodied wine made mostly from Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris.

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For Mr. Chapoutier, climate change will see an increase in rainfall, which in turn could dilute and divert the Gulf Stream.

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Chapoutier, and one of the most visible international spokesmen for the cause, likes to use the analogy of a man with a headache.

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Since taking over from his father, Max, in 1990, Mr. Chapoutier has stamped his unequivocal personality and imprint on the wines and the business.

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At the other end of the spectrum, the hyper-articulate, hypomanic Michel Chapoutier, who walks with a pronounced limp because he was too busy to get a broken leg set some years ago, makes big, rich, heavily oak-influenced wines that can outmuscle Guigal's.

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